I had not planned another posting before year end but this note from Eric Letendre just said it had to be shared.
Your dog does not have to be an obedience
champ but the majority of dogs that end up in
shelters are there because of behavior
problems.
Training usually happens after the dog has
destroyed something, becomes completely
uncontrollable on walks, refused to come
when called or has soaked the carpet a few
times.
In this email I will share my simple 5 Step
dog training plan:
Step 1: Socialization - Dogs are extremely
social animals and need to be properly
socialized or they can develop big time
behavior problems. Start young and socialize
your dog around other friendly dogs, people,
places, sights and sounds.
Step 2: Start training early - You can start
training as early as eight weeks old. Your dog
can learn all the basics and good manners at
an early age. The earlier you start the better.
Step 3: Do positive training - It is much better
to train your dog by rewarding behavior than
punishing behavior. You will get the best results
by reinforcing the behaviors you want your dog
to do.
Step 4: Manage behavior - As your dog is learning
to live with you, you will need to effectively
manage your dog's behavior. Crates, leashes, baby
gates are all management tools for you to use
to set your dog up for success.
Step 5: Exercise - "The only good dog is a tired
dog." Nuff said.
Having a plan for your dog will make it much easier
for you and your dog. I don't remember who said it
but “He who fails to plan, plans to fail."
Saturday, December 31, 2011
Thursday, December 29, 2011
A NEW YEAR RISING
Since this is a dog blog let's be a little more specific and consider 'life with our favorite dog(s)." This is an obvious time to consider those things which may be an aggravation and in what way we can make the desired changes.
The process is the same for all goals and changes, whether they be personal or professional or as in this case, for our relationship with our dog.
First we have to CLEARLY identify that which we wish to accomplish. We can't just say the dog needs better manners. We have to pinpoint the actions which we want changed and the result we wish to achieve.
Next we have to specify WHY we want the change. This seems to be the place where many plans fail because without a why it is much to easy to procrastinate and not initiate the change. If your goal is to lose 15 lbs. it needs a reason which will enable you to attach time frames. Let's say there is a pending school reunion during the Easter break then we attach this to our reason to lose the weight and we can now allocate specifics such as 15 weeks time equals a minimum of 1 lb. per week net loss etc. etc. This gives us achievable short term objectives plus regular reminders to keep us on track.
And in order to make this all happen we need an ACTION plan that gives specific steps to be followed on a regular basis to enable us to achieve our goal. Take time in preparing this plan. If you can't find adequate information in books or on line, contact people in the business. I often sit down with people and help them with a plan to get and keep their new dog on track. I don't charge for these sessions as I look upon them as a method of paying the dog community back for them making it possible for me to pursue my passion.
The most important thing is to take POSITIVE STEPS and follow through. Sure you'll slip and fall back occasionally, we all do. But, the important thing is don't beat yourself up for a small mis-step, just pick up the pieces and start where you left off. Remember your dog is going to love you for the extra time you are spending with him and he's not going to remind you that you missed a time or two. This is fun and it won't be long before you'll see positive results from your efforts and Buddy's few little aggravating activities will begin to melt away.
Most of all stay HAPPY, ENTHUSIASTIC, and maintain a POSITIVE ATTITUDE. If you can keep this foremost in your thoughts you can be assured of a WONDERFUL NEW YEAR.
Sunday, December 25, 2011
TRAIN THE SOLUTION - PART TWO
Train the Solution - Part Two
We previously dealt with the dog that runs to the door and barks and several of those types of challenges which all can be addressed with very similar treatment. Next we want to deal with the dog who doesn’t walk properly on the leash.
There must at least a dozen cure all answers to this question and I’m sure there must be at least that many more out there lurking in the dog blog sphere. Over the years I’m sure I’ve tried most except the e-collar. I did watch a You Tube video on the use of the e collar by a K9 police dog training facility and they seemed to be successful but I still prefer to train for the solution and forget the problem.
I prefer to teach the dog where I want him to be when I tell him to heel. As usual we start in a quiet environment with no distractions and our dog is off leash. As before we are equipped with high value treats which we use as lures and rewards. Here I’m going to confuse some of you who are accustomed to training for ring competition because when I want my dog to move to a position beside me and facing the same way I am, I simply say heel. From old training sessions we taught ,Come to heel, and my K9 buddies said that was confusing and many of them just said By.
Over the years I have given my dog a small hand signal of simply making a counter clockwise circle with my two fingers which when we are teaching the task it leads him back and around to the inside to where he is directly beside my left knee. As I give the signal I also say heel. Nothing fancy. Nothing complicated. Just come around and sit beside me.
So what does this have to do with the dog that pulls on his leash?
Simple enough. We are in our quiet environment with no distractions and our student is focusing on us and we say Heel and lure his nose around in a counter clockwise circle and point to that position beside our knee. When he assumes that position he is rewarded and praised. Do this with happy enthusiasm in reps of five so you can say Heel and make your little circle and point to the spot and it won’t be long and he will jump in the air and spin into position. I had a 100 Lb. Rottie that thought that this was so much fun that people would stop me on the street and ask if I could make the big dog jump up and turn in the air land beside me. She never let me down.
The secret is to make a game of this to where your dog will enthusiastically come to this position from a variety of positions and distances. We gradually change situations and continue this to be a game that has nothing to do with wherever the dog is when he is on the leash.
Next we start off with the dog beside us and with our lure in hand we say Let’s Go and walk on. You’ll be pleasantly surprised how for the most part he’ll fall in beside you and you will gradually go from 10 steps to 20 and then you will introduce a turn etc. So what do you do when he gets out of position. Hey that one’s easy you say Heel and he snaps back into that slot beside you where he knows he going to get praise and a reward. That’s why we taught the solution first.
This system takes a little more time and patience but it gets amazing results that stick because the student has a positive reason to perform the task as opposed to all of the other solutions that involve corrections that mostly include some form of punishment.
Try it you’ll like it and it’s really cool to see Buddy jump back into place beside you when you softly say only one word. Heel
Friday, December 23, 2011
A DOG'S PURPOSE
....from today's inbox and too good not to share.
A Dog's Purpose? (from a 6-year-old).
Being a veterinarian, I had been called to examine a ten-year-old Irish Wolfhound named Belker. The dog's owners, Ron, his wife Lisa, and their little boy Shane, were all very attached to Belker, and they were hoping for a miracle.
I examined Belker and found he was dying of cancer. I told the family we couldn't do anything for Belker, and offered to perform the euthanasia procedure for the old dog in their home.
As we made arrangements, Ron and Lisa told me they thought it would be good for six-year-old Shane to observe the procedure. They felt as though Shane might learn something from the experience.
The next day, I felt the familiar catch in my throat as Belker 's family surrounded him. Shane seemed so calm, petting the old dog for the last time, that I wondered if he understood what was going on. Within a few minutes, Belker slipped peacefully away.
The little boy seemed to accept Belker's transition without any difficulty or confusion. We sat together for a while after Belker's Death, wondering aloud about the sad fact that animal lives are shorter than human lives.
Shane, who had been listening quietly, piped up, ''I know why.''
Startled, we all turned to him. What came out of his mouth next stunned me. I'd never heard a more comforting explanation. It has changed the way I try and live.
He said,''People are born so that they can learn how to live a good life -- like loving everybody all the time and being nice, right?'' The Six-year-old continued,
''Well, dogs already know how to do that, so they don't have to stay as long.''
Live simply.
A Dog's Purpose? (from a 6-year-old).
Being a veterinarian, I had been called to examine a ten-year-old Irish Wolfhound named Belker. The dog's owners, Ron, his wife Lisa, and their little boy Shane, were all very attached to Belker, and they were hoping for a miracle.
I examined Belker and found he was dying of cancer. I told the family we couldn't do anything for Belker, and offered to perform the euthanasia procedure for the old dog in their home.
As we made arrangements, Ron and Lisa told me they thought it would be good for six-year-old Shane to observe the procedure. They felt as though Shane might learn something from the experience.
The next day, I felt the familiar catch in my throat as Belker 's family surrounded him. Shane seemed so calm, petting the old dog for the last time, that I wondered if he understood what was going on. Within a few minutes, Belker slipped peacefully away.
The little boy seemed to accept Belker's transition without any difficulty or confusion. We sat together for a while after Belker's Death, wondering aloud about the sad fact that animal lives are shorter than human lives.
Shane, who had been listening quietly, piped up, ''I know why.''
Startled, we all turned to him. What came out of his mouth next stunned me. I'd never heard a more comforting explanation. It has changed the way I try and live.
He said,''People are born so that they can learn how to live a good life -- like loving everybody all the time and being nice, right?'' The Six-year-old continued,
''Well, dogs already know how to do that, so they don't have to stay as long.''
Live simply.
Love generously.
Care deeply.
Speak kindly.
Remember, if a dog was the teacher you would learn things like:
When loved ones come home, always run to greet them.
Never pass up the opportunity to go for a joyride.
Allow the experience of fresh air and the wind in your face to be pure Ecstasy.
Take naps.
Stretch before rising.
Run, romp, and play daily.
Thrive on attention and let people touch you.
Avoid biting when a simple growl will do.
On warm days, stop to lie on your back on the grass.
On hot days, drink lots of water and lie under a shady tree.
When you're happy, dance around and wag your entire body.
Delight in the simple joy of a long walk.
Be loyal.
Never pretend to be something you're not.
If what you want lies buried, dig until you find it.
When someone is having a bad day, be silent, sit close by, and nuzzle them gently.
ENJOY EVERY MOMENT OF EVERY DAY!
Care deeply.
Speak kindly.
Remember, if a dog was the teacher you would learn things like:
When loved ones come home, always run to greet them.
Never pass up the opportunity to go for a joyride.
Allow the experience of fresh air and the wind in your face to be pure Ecstasy.
Take naps.
Stretch before rising.
Run, romp, and play daily.
Thrive on attention and let people touch you.
Avoid biting when a simple growl will do.
On warm days, stop to lie on your back on the grass.
On hot days, drink lots of water and lie under a shady tree.
When you're happy, dance around and wag your entire body.
Delight in the simple joy of a long walk.
Be loyal.
Never pretend to be something you're not.
If what you want lies buried, dig until you find it.
When someone is having a bad day, be silent, sit close by, and nuzzle them gently.
ENJOY EVERY MOMENT OF EVERY DAY!
Monday, December 19, 2011
MERRY " KISS-MAS"
THE BEST OF HOLIDAY WISHES TO ALL MY DOG LOVING FRIENDS
UNCONDITIONAL LOVE THAT OUR DOGS GIVE TO EACH OF US.
MAY YOU LIVE WITH BALANCE AND HARMONY AND HAVE COMPASSION
FOR ALL LIVING THINGS IN YOUR LIFE, AND THROUGH THIS, SURELY
THERE WILL BE PEACE AND LOVE
ARTTHEDOGGUY
Friday, December 16, 2011
CONCENTRATE ON THE SOLUTION PART ONE
In the previous blog we talk about training the solution. In this part we will work on the solution for the first two problems we mentioned, running to the door and barking, and begging at the table, because the solutions are the same. If you've followed me for awhile you'll recognize that I ascribe to the process of "getting the dog's attention, redirecting the attention, and rewarding the dog for performing the redirection."
In this exercise it's important that we have the right mind set because we are setting out to teach a skill as opposed to the old idea of curing a problem. At this time we want to think of the solution as being entirely divorced from the problem(s) and view it like a skill we can show off to our friends and in addition it can be a skill we can use to resolve problems.
Mechanically we are simply going to teach the dog to go and lay down and stay on his bed or in his crate for an extended period of time until he is invited to move. You see, if our dog is happily on his bed he can't perform these other undesirable activities.
We start off by placing his bed where it is that he will be able to be part of the regular activities of the environment he usually shares with the household. Next take five high value treats about the size of an MandM. This is no time for chintzy pieces of kibble, we want real motivators here. We want zero distractions, just you and the dog. You start about 4 or 5 feet from the bed. Now show him you have a "lure" in your hand and say "go to your BED" with the accent on the word bed. In the future this will be the only command. With the lure (treat) you direct him to the bed and when he is on the bed you say SIT and move the treat from an area near his nose and between his ears and back toward his tail. When he sits we move the treat down between his front feet and when he assumes a down we say "good dog" open our hand and give him the reward and say STAY.
You are going to repeat this process from this close in position four more times and take a pause. Shortly you repeat the exercise with happy enthusiasm for another 5 times and you continue until you have done 20 repetitions. Between reps he stays on the bed and is congratulated for doing a good job, This becomes a fun experience for the dog if you approach it as fun happening and not just a boring training exercise. This onus is on you to make this enjoyable for your dog.
After a few days of successful sessions from the short distance you gradually increase the distances. Once the dog will enthusiastically run to his bed from various distances we try having him go to the bed from different rooms or places in the house so he is foolproof. Our goal is for him to run to his bed and lay down as soon as he hears the one command "go to your BED". At this stage he is always rewarded. Remember there must be a reason for the student to perform the task.
You'll notice that we haven't concerned our self with the problems of barking at the door, begging, or whatever other undesirable activities we may have to deal with. At this time time we simply want him to happily master the task of going to his bed on command.
This may take several weeks of daily practice of two or three five minute sessions daily to get to where we are ready to try this as the solution to solving our problems. Now start with some easy ones. I would have a helper ring the door bell only once and immediately I would give the command and enthusiastically encourage the dog to hurry to his bed where he is directed to a down position and is rewarded and offered lots of praise for a job well done. Try a few more times and quit when you are successful and your dog is still having fun. We want him to think of that door bell as "Here comes Chicken Man with the treats." Next our visitor will come in the door and the dog is again directed enthusiastically to his bed where he is rewarded, and so on, etc.
From here on in the success is entirely up to you. If you treat every challenge as an opportunity for your dog to perform his miracle act that produces good stuff as opposed to you seeing things as another annoyance, you can be rewarded with a new and wonderful relationship with your dog. Try it. I'm sure you'll find it well worth the effort.
In this exercise it's important that we have the right mind set because we are setting out to teach a skill as opposed to the old idea of curing a problem. At this time we want to think of the solution as being entirely divorced from the problem(s) and view it like a skill we can show off to our friends and in addition it can be a skill we can use to resolve problems.
Mechanically we are simply going to teach the dog to go and lay down and stay on his bed or in his crate for an extended period of time until he is invited to move. You see, if our dog is happily on his bed he can't perform these other undesirable activities.
We start off by placing his bed where it is that he will be able to be part of the regular activities of the environment he usually shares with the household. Next take five high value treats about the size of an MandM. This is no time for chintzy pieces of kibble, we want real motivators here. We want zero distractions, just you and the dog. You start about 4 or 5 feet from the bed. Now show him you have a "lure" in your hand and say "go to your BED" with the accent on the word bed. In the future this will be the only command. With the lure (treat) you direct him to the bed and when he is on the bed you say SIT and move the treat from an area near his nose and between his ears and back toward his tail. When he sits we move the treat down between his front feet and when he assumes a down we say "good dog" open our hand and give him the reward and say STAY.
You are going to repeat this process from this close in position four more times and take a pause. Shortly you repeat the exercise with happy enthusiasm for another 5 times and you continue until you have done 20 repetitions. Between reps he stays on the bed and is congratulated for doing a good job, This becomes a fun experience for the dog if you approach it as fun happening and not just a boring training exercise. This onus is on you to make this enjoyable for your dog.
After a few days of successful sessions from the short distance you gradually increase the distances. Once the dog will enthusiastically run to his bed from various distances we try having him go to the bed from different rooms or places in the house so he is foolproof. Our goal is for him to run to his bed and lay down as soon as he hears the one command "go to your BED". At this stage he is always rewarded. Remember there must be a reason for the student to perform the task.
You'll notice that we haven't concerned our self with the problems of barking at the door, begging, or whatever other undesirable activities we may have to deal with. At this time time we simply want him to happily master the task of going to his bed on command.
This may take several weeks of daily practice of two or three five minute sessions daily to get to where we are ready to try this as the solution to solving our problems. Now start with some easy ones. I would have a helper ring the door bell only once and immediately I would give the command and enthusiastically encourage the dog to hurry to his bed where he is directed to a down position and is rewarded and offered lots of praise for a job well done. Try a few more times and quit when you are successful and your dog is still having fun. We want him to think of that door bell as "Here comes Chicken Man with the treats." Next our visitor will come in the door and the dog is again directed enthusiastically to his bed where he is rewarded, and so on, etc.
From here on in the success is entirely up to you. If you treat every challenge as an opportunity for your dog to perform his miracle act that produces good stuff as opposed to you seeing things as another annoyance, you can be rewarded with a new and wonderful relationship with your dog. Try it. I'm sure you'll find it well worth the effort.
Thursday, December 15, 2011
To Heck With the Problem – Concentrate on the Solution
Stop for a moment and imagine you are helping a six year old with their arithmetic homework and you ask how much is four plus three and they say six. Now would you administer a form of punishment and repeat the question only this time in a louder voice and the next time they said six, would you repeat your punishment and again repeat the same question in a yet louder voice? Of course not. You would correct them and tell them four plus three is seven and if you were a good teacher you would show by example that if you had four beans and you added three beans you would now have seven. Next the teacher again poses the question of what is four plus three and the student correctly answers seven where upon he is complimented upon his performance and offered positive praise.
Now consider the dog trainer whose dog goes to the door and barks and what does he do? If he’s not too lazy to get up out of his chair he goes to the door, gives the dog a swat, and yells at him to stop, and then goes back to the TV until the dog repeats the barking and is rewarded with the same treatment. Next the dog proceeds to beg at the table and he is chastised and chased from the immediate area where he cowers in a corner until he gets up enough nerve to re-approach the table and he gets a double dose of the above treatment. Later the dog is taken out for a walk whereupon he goes to the end of the leash and proceeds to lead the owner briskly down the sidewalk all the while struggling at the end of the leash which the owner jerks and the dog slows down then speeds up and is rewarded with another stronger jerk accompanied by a loud shout. After this process is repeated for a third or fourth time the owner typically gives up, announces to whom ever may listen that this breed of dog is a compulsive puller and can’t be changed so he will accept being jerked and pulled along.
So what’s the analogy here.
The good teacher showed the student where he was wrong and proceeded to offer a SOLUTION. When the student gave the correct answer he was acknowledged with complimentary praise.
The dog trainer was very vocal and offered physical corrections but NEVER offered an alternate in the form of a SOLUTION which when performed correctly would result in a positive reaction and praise from the trainer. This seems disgustingly obvious but unfortunately it is the usual way many people try to train their dogs.
Sadly this is the best many dogs get and lots of them wind up in shelters because owners find them to be untrainable and they get relegated to the trash heap when all it really requires is a slight adjustment to the owner’s methodology which can produce miracle results.
It’s this simple folks!! Forget and ignore the problem and concentrate on the solution. Remember, with POSITIVE MOTIVATION the student willingly wants to repeat the task but with NEGATIVE MOTIVATION the student does not want to repeat the task
Thursday, December 1, 2011
GOOD BYE LUNA
This is Luna at 18 weeks. She passed away yesterday just shy of 20 weeks of an as yet undiagnosed virus that affected her brain. This is my good bye to probably the best Rottweiler puppy that I have ever been priveleged to train, and I would put her in my all time top 5 without hesitation. I started her at ten weeks and by 18 weeks she had met over 100 people and at least that many other dogs both on leash and off leash. When this picture was taken she had progressed to the point where she was working off leash in public environments and regularly went with her owner to lunch in outdoor restaurants who accepted dogs and would quietly lay under the table. It was an exciting pleasure every time the lady met me so I could work with Luna because she learned so quickly and was always willing to try new things. If I seem a littled confused it's because I'm trying to type this with tears in my eyes and this old cowboy doesn't tear up easily. Good bye little friend.
Sunday, November 27, 2011
Dog Humor
. The following is borrowed from Phillip Humbert's Newsletter. If you enjoy self improvement and positive messages it's a great read. He often includes a little humor like the bits below.
If dogs were the teachers, you would learn stuff like:
When loved ones come home, always run to greet them.
Never pass up the opportunity to go for a joyride.
Let fresh air and the wind in your face be pure ecstasy.
When it's in your best interest, practice obedience.
Let others know when they've invaded your territory.
Take naps.
Stretch before rising.
Run, romp, and play daily.
Thrive on attention and let people touch you.
Avoid biting when a simple growl will do.
On warm days, stop to lie on your back on the grass.
On hot days, drink lots of water and lie under a shady tree.
When you're happy, dance around and wag your whole body.
No matter how often you're scolded, don't buy into the guilt
thing and never hold a grudge! Run right back and make
friends.
Delight in the joy of a long walk.
Eat with gusto and enthusiasm. Stop when you have had
enough.
Be loyal. Never pretend to be something you're not.
If what you want lies buried, dig until you find it.
When someone is having a bad day, be silent, sit close by
and nuzzle them gently.
If dogs were the teachers, you would learn stuff like:
When loved ones come home, always run to greet them.
Never pass up the opportunity to go for a joyride.
Let fresh air and the wind in your face be pure ecstasy.
When it's in your best interest, practice obedience.
Let others know when they've invaded your territory.
Take naps.
Stretch before rising.
Run, romp, and play daily.
Thrive on attention and let people touch you.
Avoid biting when a simple growl will do.
On warm days, stop to lie on your back on the grass.
On hot days, drink lots of water and lie under a shady tree.
When you're happy, dance around and wag your whole body.
No matter how often you're scolded, don't buy into the guilt
thing and never hold a grudge! Run right back and make
friends.
Delight in the joy of a long walk.
Eat with gusto and enthusiasm. Stop when you have had
enough.
Be loyal. Never pretend to be something you're not.
If what you want lies buried, dig until you find it.
When someone is having a bad day, be silent, sit close by
and nuzzle them gently.
Saturday, November 26, 2011
"..........shame on me."
My days always start before the sun gets up and by dawn I've had my second cuppa, laced up the boots, and headed out to start working with dogs.
Today was the same and by ten o'clock Shep and I were mid way through four miles of exercise and schooling and the coffee kicked in and the old trainer was hunting for a bush or a tree. You see we don't have "public potties" or Starbucks on every corner so a fella has to improvise.
Not to worry, I remember a culvert/bridge arrangement not far down the road so we hustle along and duck under the road to relieve ourself. Well I'm standing under the bridge doing my business and gazing off yonder as men are want to do in times like this, and I sense my left boot and sock is feeling a little wet and warm. I glance down and Shep is standing along side looking off yonder in the same direction as I and has his leg cocked and he is peeing on my leg and in my boot.
Well I can promise you that if someone could have caught a video of that plus the squaw dance that followed, and posted it on You Tube, it would 'a gone viral in less time than it took for my boot to dry.
Today was the same and by ten o'clock Shep and I were mid way through four miles of exercise and schooling and the coffee kicked in and the old trainer was hunting for a bush or a tree. You see we don't have "public potties" or Starbucks on every corner so a fella has to improvise.
Not to worry, I remember a culvert/bridge arrangement not far down the road so we hustle along and duck under the road to relieve ourself. Well I'm standing under the bridge doing my business and gazing off yonder as men are want to do in times like this, and I sense my left boot and sock is feeling a little wet and warm. I glance down and Shep is standing along side looking off yonder in the same direction as I and has his leg cocked and he is peeing on my leg and in my boot.
Well I can promise you that if someone could have caught a video of that plus the squaw dance that followed, and posted it on You Tube, it would 'a gone viral in less time than it took for my boot to dry.
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
NEW TWIST ON AN OLD METHOD
One system to assist in potty training your dog has been to take him on leash to a designated or chosen spot which you prefer he will use and stand and wait until he goes. Obviously it's best to do this first thing in the morning, 45 minutes after meals, and last thing in the evening before bed. You should also include 2 hour intervals during the day when the pup is younger and these can be stretched a little as he gets a little older.
Okay, here's and additional twist from Eric Letendre who writes great dog training ideas. When you are at the "spot" use a separate expression but not one you use for other encouragements. For example, we often say "Hurry up, or let's go, get on with it", when we want the dog to get in a vehicle, come inside or whatever.
The point is much of our training is teaching the dog a new language so we should try, whenever ,to not confuse the stydent. Eric's suggestion is to pick an expression you will nor ever use in another situation therefore it exclusively means go to the bathroom. Eric uses "Do your business". Only those three words and when the dog starts to do his business you shut up entirely until he is finished at which time you then praise him, thank him, and offer a small reward.
I shared this with a student recently and it seems to be working like a damn.
Okay, here's and additional twist from Eric Letendre who writes great dog training ideas. When you are at the "spot" use a separate expression but not one you use for other encouragements. For example, we often say "Hurry up, or let's go, get on with it", when we want the dog to get in a vehicle, come inside or whatever.
The point is much of our training is teaching the dog a new language so we should try, whenever ,to not confuse the stydent. Eric's suggestion is to pick an expression you will nor ever use in another situation therefore it exclusively means go to the bathroom. Eric uses "Do your business". Only those three words and when the dog starts to do his business you shut up entirely until he is finished at which time you then praise him, thank him, and offer a small reward.
I shared this with a student recently and it seems to be working like a damn.
Friday, November 18, 2011
FEAR OF LOUD NOISES
Where I live all of the towns and villages have a Patron Saint and once a year the town celebrates their saint with a fiesta which is nine days long and includes the usual parades and bands and all the community type festivities. One exception we have is "cohetes". A cohete is a cigar sized firecrack on steroids which is attached to the end of meter long slender stick and when ignited "swooshes" skyward and at about 100 feet explodes with the power and noise of a stick of dynamite. The noise has been referred to as like a mortar going off or some newcomers are told it's blasting in the mines in the hills. (They've been dead for 100 years). They are very loud and are detonated for an hour in the morning from 6 am and again at noon and at 10 pm. Each day of the fiesta is sponsored by a different group who try to outdo the others so there will be mornings with over 4,000 of these boogers by 7 am. Needless to say they scare the crap out of dogs not native to this immediate are, hence the following article which I wrote for one of the local monthlys..
FEAR OF LOUD NOISES
With the onset of Fiesta Patronales and the other various and sundry occasions that bring out the dreaded “cohetes” or “Boom Booms” in gringo talk, it’s timely to address your dog’s anxieties over loud noises
Instead of resorting to drugs or Superman capes over Buddy’s shoulders, let’s teach him to enjoy and actually look forward to the noises. As we do in so many other exercises we set out to trade an experience or treat of such a high value that it replaces the anxiety of the noise.
If you could visualize your most favorite treat or meal in portions that were unlimited there are most likely very few distractions that would stop you from enjoying this experience. This is what we are going to do with Buddy but in small steps and small distractions (loud noises) and gradually build up to where you can literally fire off a shotgun beside the dog without him having a negative reaction.
This is the same system I was taught many years ago when we trained our hunting dogs.
With Buddy’s case we’re going to start with a loud noise like dropping a pot and lid on a tile floor. Get and old one or Mom is likely to drop you on the tile floor. You need a helper who can drop the pan on signal.
We start with a very “high value” treat like cheese or meat. This is jackpot time because we aren’t doing the “lure reward” system here, we are creating a new emotional experience.
Okay let’s get started. With Buddy on a leash so he won’t leave the training environment we say his name and when he looks at us we give him a juicy treat and praise him for his response. We now look over and nod to our helper who is at least fifty feet away and he drops the pot from about knee height. As soon as Buddy acknowledges the noise we give him a big treat and praise. This is a feel good time so put your heart into this. Take a few minutes and repeat the exercise. Buddy will soon ignore the noise and you can have the helper come a little closer and the pot is dropped from a little higher and you continue to heap on the treats and praise.
If you take your time, and I’m talking days to practice this not hours, it won’t be long ‘til Buddy is completely ignoring the noise and you will get to where you can literally drop the pot and lid right beside him and he’ll just look up for the reward.
Next comes the cohetes. As soon as you hear the first rocket you get all excited and tell Buddy “Boy oh boy, here comes the boom booms”, and you get ready to heap on the hugs and pile on the goodies.
We don’t sympathize and do the “Poor Buddy” routine , we get all excited about Buddy having a great experience when the rockets go off. Keep it up until they stop. Admittedly it can be a little harder when they start at 6 am but think of it as a positive training experience for Buddy and at our age most of us were already up for the early pee break anyway.
As with all training that is altering the emotions, don’t go too fast. If your dog is nervous and freaking, back up and go more slowly. It will work but the results are entirely dependent upon your efforts.
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
FIVE STEPS TO A GREAT DOG
FIVE STEPS TO A GREAT DOG
My wife often tells me “not everyone wants to be a dog trainer”, and for the most part I have to agree but I still feel that if people would commit just a little more regular effort they would avoid a lot of problems and enjoy their dog a whole lot more. One step for the handler and four for your dog is all it takes.
Step 1, BE A LEADER. Don’t worry about ‘pack leader’ or ‘alpha dog’ or whatever the flavor of the week happens to be. Simply learn to be a leader. Whenever and wherever we get two or more dogs, people, or whatever, together one has to be a leader. That’s a simple law of nature. If the herd is “playing lemming” and heading over the cliff, either figuratively or literally, someone has to come to the fore and take control and lead. It’s the same with our relationship with our dogs. We either lead or they do. Just as when you are a parent, it’s your responsibility to establish rules, regulations, and limitations, and to lead and offer guidance. Additionally, this job must be performed consistently and with persistence. You can’t be a dog leader and guide one day and ignore the job, or worse yet become a baby talking kissy face the next day.
Step 2, TEACH THE DOG HIS NAME. This sounds so obvious but most people think that using the dog’s name a lot will teach him his name. This results in a dog that knows and acknowledges his name when he wants to but not always. If you say “There’s my Buddy, come over here and stay down and be a good dog.” Yes, you have used the dog’s name but you used thirteen other words. Which word did you expect him to learn? And you also used three other words which are specific commands leading to a task, i.e. come, stay, and down. Use imprint and reward motivation to teach your dog his name. If your dog will always respond to his name and look at you for the next direction you will be better able to avoid unwanted situations.
Step 3, TEACH THE DOG TO SIT. Sit and come are the two most important tasks for your dog to master. If your dog has his butt on the floor he can’t jump up on people, he can’t lunge at cars, bikes, skateboards, kids, bouncing balls, other dogs, or whatever. If he has a proper Sit, you don’t even have to teach him to Stay because if he is in a sit he stays in that position until he is released or directed to do something else. Use “lure and reward” to teach a proper sit and practice regularly in varying environments with different distractions.
Step 4, TEACH THE DOG TO COME. Come is a “never compromise” task. Failure to come when called can lead to lots of problems. I don’t have to tell any of you about the adverse effects of the dog that ignores the come command because if you’re reading this you have already had first hand experience with a dog that runs off and doesn’t respond when called. Use the lure and reward method and start small and always be generous with the reward until the dog responds ten out of ten times at ever increasing distances. Don’t attempt longer distances or environments where you are setting the dog up for failure until you have mastered the basics. Remember, the job you do now just might save your dog’s life in the future.
Step 5, TEACH THE DOG TO WALK ON A LOOSE LEASH. If a dog is in front of the handler and pulling on the leash he is announcing to the world that at this time and in this situation he doesn’t respect the other end of the leash because the handler is not being a leader and the dog is assuming that role. Recognize that a dog that is in front and pulling is not in your control. He is a risk to others and a danger to you. Learn how to teach your dog to walk beside you on a loose leash in the proper heel position whenever he is on a walk.
So there you have it. Five easy steps to a great dog and a companion that is a pleasure to have around.
Monday, November 7, 2011
LOOK AT ME
"Until one has loved an animal a part of one's soul remains unawakened." Anotole France
I often encounter people poking their dogs in the neck and saying "Look at Me, Look at Me" while they point at their eyes. Need less to say this occurs when the dog is being less than attentive.
My personal feeling is that this "Look at Me" process is redundant, superfluous, and entirely unnecessary, if you had simply used the proper procedure to teach the dog his name. What is it you want the dog to do when you command him to Look at Me? Presumably you want him to look toward you and since you are pointing at your face I have to assume you want him to look there.
Excuse me, but isn't that precisely what we teach the dog to do when we are teaching him his name?
Remember the part where we hold a treat about a foot in front of our face and say a single word. The Dog's name. If he looks toward us, that is a positive reaction and we reciprocate with a like positive reaction. We reach down and open our hand and offer a reward which at this stage is usually a small food treat about the size of the end of our little finger. We repeat this simple task four or five times and take a break and then repeat the training process for an additional four or five times. We do this in repetitions of five times every day. The behaviorists tell us to do this daily for six weeks so we "imprint" the name. It also helps if you keep a few treats handy and do a few "reps" throughout the day.
I have done and taught this for a very long time and the result is that when you speak the dog's name he looks directly at you for direction. Now isn't the same result the "Look at Me" folks are trying to achieve? Of course it is, so why bother to teach two systems. Seems to me, we make our dog's learning process confusing enough for him without bothering to duplicate an exercise by simply changing the ground rules.
I'm reminded of a story I read a while back about a very accomplished Scottish trainer who was a master at everything from detection dogs to herding dogs and he didn't teach the Stay. His contention was that when he said Sit, he meant Sit and there was no reason for an addition command. The dog should sit until he was directed to go on to something else, therefore the Stay command was unnecessary. He felt the same about Stay when in a Down. When you think about it, it makes good sense. I tried it but after all these years I seem to be programmed to use the Stay command but I do accept the wisdom of his concept.
So with the same thought why not give thought to doing a good job teaching the dog his name and you won't have to do the "Look at Me" thing.
I often encounter people poking their dogs in the neck and saying "Look at Me, Look at Me" while they point at their eyes. Need less to say this occurs when the dog is being less than attentive.
My personal feeling is that this "Look at Me" process is redundant, superfluous, and entirely unnecessary, if you had simply used the proper procedure to teach the dog his name. What is it you want the dog to do when you command him to Look at Me? Presumably you want him to look toward you and since you are pointing at your face I have to assume you want him to look there.
Excuse me, but isn't that precisely what we teach the dog to do when we are teaching him his name?
Remember the part where we hold a treat about a foot in front of our face and say a single word. The Dog's name. If he looks toward us, that is a positive reaction and we reciprocate with a like positive reaction. We reach down and open our hand and offer a reward which at this stage is usually a small food treat about the size of the end of our little finger. We repeat this simple task four or five times and take a break and then repeat the training process for an additional four or five times. We do this in repetitions of five times every day. The behaviorists tell us to do this daily for six weeks so we "imprint" the name. It also helps if you keep a few treats handy and do a few "reps" throughout the day.
I have done and taught this for a very long time and the result is that when you speak the dog's name he looks directly at you for direction. Now isn't the same result the "Look at Me" folks are trying to achieve? Of course it is, so why bother to teach two systems. Seems to me, we make our dog's learning process confusing enough for him without bothering to duplicate an exercise by simply changing the ground rules.
I'm reminded of a story I read a while back about a very accomplished Scottish trainer who was a master at everything from detection dogs to herding dogs and he didn't teach the Stay. His contention was that when he said Sit, he meant Sit and there was no reason for an addition command. The dog should sit until he was directed to go on to something else, therefore the Stay command was unnecessary. He felt the same about Stay when in a Down. When you think about it, it makes good sense. I tried it but after all these years I seem to be programmed to use the Stay command but I do accept the wisdom of his concept.
So with the same thought why not give thought to doing a good job teaching the dog his name and you won't have to do the "Look at Me" thing.
Saturday, November 5, 2011
Don't Chase your Dog Mr.
I was recently working with a student and his ten month old Springer Spaniel. We were practicing long stays near a large lake where we had a new environment and a few distractions but this dog is well past the basics so it was a good opportunity to work on long stays off leash.
We had done a couple of shorter (1 minute) stays so I upped the ante a bit and asked for 3 minutes with the handler in front of and about ten feet from the dog. At about the 2 minute point there was a distraction near the shoreline and the hunter part of the springer kicked in and he headed for the lake.
At first this was like a casual dog pace until his handler did the panic routine. Next thing I know the handler is running toward the dog shouting NO, DOWN and COME and the faster this man ran the louder and fast and frantic he yelled.
Well needless to say Mr. Springer, realizing he was being pursued by a raving lunatic, did a "u-boat special" and headed for deep water. I walked toward the lake calmly saying "Don't chase your dog sir and don't yell at your dog." As the dog is swimming about 10 feet off but parallel to shore the man is still acting like a Jack Russel on steroids when he looks up and sees a sea wall jutting out into the lake so there's no more shore line and Springer looks like he's in training for the big Channel Swim. By now I'm beginning to find this quite entertaining. Mr. Handler is still admonishing his dog except he's now up to his knees and water and it's not getting any shallower. About three more leaps and he realizes he's not going to catch the dog so he turns and wades back to shore and behold the dog looks back and says "Hey, aren't you coming along?" I whistle and the dog heads back full of enthusiasm runs up to me, shakes water all over and sits down and waits for his master to get the water out of his $130 runners and designer shorts.
The lesson is DON'T CHASE YOUR DOG and especially cool it with the yelling routine. All the shouting does is make the dog go faster. Remember high pitched , loud, and fast vocalizing means speed up and get out of town. Low and slow mean whoa.
We had done a couple of shorter (1 minute) stays so I upped the ante a bit and asked for 3 minutes with the handler in front of and about ten feet from the dog. At about the 2 minute point there was a distraction near the shoreline and the hunter part of the springer kicked in and he headed for the lake.
At first this was like a casual dog pace until his handler did the panic routine. Next thing I know the handler is running toward the dog shouting NO, DOWN and COME and the faster this man ran the louder and fast and frantic he yelled.
Well needless to say Mr. Springer, realizing he was being pursued by a raving lunatic, did a "u-boat special" and headed for deep water. I walked toward the lake calmly saying "Don't chase your dog sir and don't yell at your dog." As the dog is swimming about 10 feet off but parallel to shore the man is still acting like a Jack Russel on steroids when he looks up and sees a sea wall jutting out into the lake so there's no more shore line and Springer looks like he's in training for the big Channel Swim. By now I'm beginning to find this quite entertaining. Mr. Handler is still admonishing his dog except he's now up to his knees and water and it's not getting any shallower. About three more leaps and he realizes he's not going to catch the dog so he turns and wades back to shore and behold the dog looks back and says "Hey, aren't you coming along?" I whistle and the dog heads back full of enthusiasm runs up to me, shakes water all over and sits down and waits for his master to get the water out of his $130 runners and designer shorts.
The lesson is DON'T CHASE YOUR DOG and especially cool it with the yelling routine. All the shouting does is make the dog go faster. Remember high pitched , loud, and fast vocalizing means speed up and get out of town. Low and slow mean whoa.
Sunday, October 30, 2011
LIGHTEN UP FOLKS
"I wonder what our dogs are thinking when they see us peeing in their big water bowl?"
It's interesting how often I encounter dog problems that are clearly a result of stress at the "other end " of the leash. Firstly, in dog classes you regularly see people who are nervous and the stress goes straight down the leash. And when I visit people's homes to chat about their dog problems I often sense a nervous tension in the dog owner and a resulting anxiety in the dog.
Visualize yourself in the first week of basic training for the Marines and every part of you daily existence depends upon a hardened Drill Sergeant who gets perverse delight in making a new recruit's life as miserable as possible. Now put yourself in the dog's shoes. It's not uncommon to see aspiring student trainers who are nervous about the class and their dogs are barking, jumping, and lunging at everything and everybody in sight and all these folks know is yell, jerk, and pull. In most cases the dog feeds off the handler's stress and thinks "if you are yelling and jerking I should jump, lunge, and bark because it seems like that's what you are encouraging me to do."
When your dog acts up you relax, give him a loose leash, keep your mouth shut, and stand still. It'll take a few minutes but he'll cool out and find out there's nothing in this foolish behavior for him and he will sit near you. Wait until you're confident he's " let the air out of his tires" then quietly reach down and offer him a treat and say thank you. If he revs up again you ignore him, wait until he relaxes again and reward him again. Remember you're rewarding for cooling out and relaxing This is extremely difficult for the average trainer because they want want instant gratification and feel the only way to change this ill mannered behavior is to correct the offender. That equates to "punish" the student for whatever he is doing that you don't want him to do.
Recognize this, the dog doesn't know he's doing anything wrong. He's just doing what seems like a natural activity to him and in many cases people have taught this misbehavior. For example, jumping dogs are taught to jump because people reward them for jumping up. Yep, you see lots of folks talk baby talk and wave their hands around when they meet their dog and when he jumps up he gets a hug and his ears are roughed up etc. When he does the same thing to people who don't like the dog jumping on them they vocalize in a high pitched voice and push the dog away and guess what? The dog doesn't differentiate. He got what he wanted; voice, hand action, and touch. In other words, he got attention and that's all he wanted.
So the message folks is Lighten up and Cool out.
Go look in the mirror.
If your dog is full of anxiety and driving you crazy just maybe the cause is between your ears.
Lighten up enjoy your dog. This doesn't mean you spoil your dog, you simply give him regular, persistent and consistent leadership.
Keep me posted I'm sure you'll see a difference.
It's interesting how often I encounter dog problems that are clearly a result of stress at the "other end " of the leash. Firstly, in dog classes you regularly see people who are nervous and the stress goes straight down the leash. And when I visit people's homes to chat about their dog problems I often sense a nervous tension in the dog owner and a resulting anxiety in the dog.
Visualize yourself in the first week of basic training for the Marines and every part of you daily existence depends upon a hardened Drill Sergeant who gets perverse delight in making a new recruit's life as miserable as possible. Now put yourself in the dog's shoes. It's not uncommon to see aspiring student trainers who are nervous about the class and their dogs are barking, jumping, and lunging at everything and everybody in sight and all these folks know is yell, jerk, and pull. In most cases the dog feeds off the handler's stress and thinks "if you are yelling and jerking I should jump, lunge, and bark because it seems like that's what you are encouraging me to do."
When your dog acts up you relax, give him a loose leash, keep your mouth shut, and stand still. It'll take a few minutes but he'll cool out and find out there's nothing in this foolish behavior for him and he will sit near you. Wait until you're confident he's " let the air out of his tires" then quietly reach down and offer him a treat and say thank you. If he revs up again you ignore him, wait until he relaxes again and reward him again. Remember you're rewarding for cooling out and relaxing This is extremely difficult for the average trainer because they want want instant gratification and feel the only way to change this ill mannered behavior is to correct the offender. That equates to "punish" the student for whatever he is doing that you don't want him to do.
Recognize this, the dog doesn't know he's doing anything wrong. He's just doing what seems like a natural activity to him and in many cases people have taught this misbehavior. For example, jumping dogs are taught to jump because people reward them for jumping up. Yep, you see lots of folks talk baby talk and wave their hands around when they meet their dog and when he jumps up he gets a hug and his ears are roughed up etc. When he does the same thing to people who don't like the dog jumping on them they vocalize in a high pitched voice and push the dog away and guess what? The dog doesn't differentiate. He got what he wanted; voice, hand action, and touch. In other words, he got attention and that's all he wanted.
So the message folks is Lighten up and Cool out.
Go look in the mirror.
If your dog is full of anxiety and driving you crazy just maybe the cause is between your ears.
Lighten up enjoy your dog. This doesn't mean you spoil your dog, you simply give him regular, persistent and consistent leadership.
Keep me posted I'm sure you'll see a difference.
Wednesday, October 19, 2011
THE NO FAIL RECALL
THE NO-FAIL RECALL
Very few people are happy with their dog’s response to the COME command in all situations. We often hear comments like “he comes mostly only when he wants to” or “he’s pretty good in the yard but doesn’t listen when he’s outside or loose in the park”. There are lots of variations to these remarks but they all add up to the fact that the dog really does not have a reliable recall.
Many folks think you can’t change an old dog or train an adult but they will learn a solid recall as simply as a puppy will if you are prepared to put in the effort. This doesn’t have to be a huge effort as much as it requires regular, consistent, and persistent effort.
Before we start the training process let’s review a few “cast in stone” basics.
There’s no FREE LUNCH . If you want something in this world you have to give something.
There must a reason for the student to perform the task. This is called MOTIVATION.
You must be CONSISTENT with your commands and signals and expectation of performance.
You must be PERSISTENT. If you compromise the student simply learns that there is a different and acceptable way to perform or not perform the task.
Small short sessions that always ensure the dog succeeds with happy enthusiasm create automatic reflex reactions.
Okay let’s get started. First we need a place completely free of all distractions. This includes other pets, people, TV, radio, cell phones etc. etc. We are setting the student up to succeed and this doesn’t include competing with distractions at this stage. Next we need a generous supply of tasty, aromatic treats which are the rewards earned by successful performance. Now reach down and remove the dog’s collar and leash. If he is going to learn to respond to you he has to learn while he is free to make other choices. If the dog only comes when he’s trailing a leash or connected to a long leash he will always be tempted to bolt as soon as he is off leash.
Put a few treats in your hand and “lure”, or move him, several steps in one direction by simply placing the lure or treats near his nose and moving your hand in front of him. As soon as he follows your hand a short distance simply open your hand and offer him a single piece of treat as reward for a positive response. You will naturally be inclined to praise him, so say “good dog” and then try it again. Repeat this five times and give him a pat and a “good dog” and take a small break. At this stage we want him to readily follow your hand and be rewarded EVERY time. We are building basics.
A COME is when the dog is given a voice command and a hand signal and he moves from a position away from you to immediately in front of you with his nose between your knees. To be correct the dog should sit in front of you and never offer to come near and then dart away.
The next step is a simple variation on what we just taught except we start with the dog only 4 or 5 feet from us and we say only two words. “Buddy Come” and with treat in hand we wave the dog toward us as if we are beckoning him toward us with the hand signal ending more or less between our knees. If he remembers the previous little exercise he will come to you and end up with his nose between your knees. If you will now put the treat near his nose and move the treat up and between his ears in a direction toward his tail, he will sit and you will open your hand and offer him the treat. Mechanically this is easy but takes a little practice so the process flows and becomes automatic to both of you.
We repeat this 5 times always from a short distance until it is cemented and he reacts perfectly EVERY time he is asked. If you start to compromise at this stage you simply teach him that he can do it a different way when he wants.
After you have done this from 4 or 5 feet for several days move on to 6 or 8 feet. Remember we are teaching a reflex action so we don’t start to extend the distance at the risk of the dog not being successful. If you stretch the distance too far too quickly and he doesn’t respond as expected, you will raise your voice and start to hurriedly repeat the command and become impatient and the dog becomes confused and there goes all the progress you’ve made to date.
These little sessions are repeated many times a day and soon you can graduate to a different environment and then another and soon you will be at 10 or 12 feet and in varying locations. At this time the dog is ALWAYS rewarded.
If you practice this faithfully you will soon have a student that always comes when called but only in the environment in which he is familiar so next we have to move on to different locations. Remember we always want to set ourselves up to succeed so when you choose a place to try your new skills don’t go directly to the dog park or the shopping plaza . Our goal is for our student to always be successful at the start so we have to pick our new locations with the thought to avoid as many distractions as possible and to practice what we have mastered, starting at short distances and increasing the distance step by step so we have lots of successes.
At this time we are still training which means we make a specific effort to take the dog to different locations and we practice recalls in repetitions of 5 with rewards which by this time will have progressed to pat, verbal, every time and the tasty treat less often. It’s important that you occasionally throw in the “jackpot” treat for a special accomplishment. If the recall was from a longer than average distance or through a variety of distractions don’t be reluctant to show your appreciation for a job well done. Remember there must be a reason for the student to perform the task and we don’t want the motivation to wear off.
Okay a few more points.
If the dog doesn’t come on the first call do not repeat the command. Split the distance and repeat the command. Continue this procedure until he comes at which time he is rewarded. NEVER berate your dog for coming to you.
Don’t continue to shout at your dog to come. It has been shown that people increase the pitch and velocity of the voice as they repeat the command and this actually encourages the dog to run away from the person.
When he is loose in a park for example, call him and pat him and praise him for coming and then tell him to play some more. If you only call him to put him in the car he’ll soon figure out that he only gets called to go home.
You can build a solid recall if you are prepared to put in the effort. Remember as we said before , there’s no free lunch. If you want something, you have to give something.
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