THOSE DARNED “D’S”
Most people who have done even a little dog training have encountered the dreaded 3D’s. DISTRACTIONS, DISTANCE, and DURATION. 
  Probably the most common comment heard at any dog class is “My dog does  it so well at home but when he comes to class he seems to go deaf and  forget everything.” 
Most dogs can get a pretty good handle on the basics  in just a few concentrated sessions if we work in a quiet place with no  distractions.
 Now comes the challenge. 
We venture out into the real  world filled with even the simplest of distractions and our student  turns deaf and has a complete lapse of memory.
 Here’s where we check to  see if you’ve remembered the basics of training.
 Patience, persistence,  consistency, and above all motivation. 
The student must have a reason to  perform. This is called motivation and we hope you use positive  motivation as opposed to the old “jerk and pull” system.
 If you hope to  overcome a distraction you must offer an alternative motivation which  will exceed whatever interest the student has in the distraction. The  big piece of freshly grilled sirloin has to be more appealing than the  cute little "poodle chick" who has just happened to wander into your  training area. 
The real long term answer to overcoming distractions is  to practice small bits many times in lots of different environments with  tons of positive motivation for performance until the task becomes  thoroughly imprinted and is an automatic reflex action which is not  sidetracked by distractions.
 In short it requires that we practice  simple steps regularly in many different situations and environments and  gradually increase the difficulty and distractions. 
Mostly we think of DISTANCE  as being a factor in the recall.
 People seem to forget about having the  dog master the recall in a controlled environment and from a very short  distance until they have mastered the basics. 
Instead they start  yelling “come” or “here” when the dog has no idea what they mean and is  way too distant to respond favorably.  
When the dog ignores them they  assume he is deaf and up goes the volume, pitch, and velocity and soon  the dog is saying “adios amigo, I'm not going near that person.” 
You  teach the recall in small bites and short distances and it always ends  with positive, happy, enthusiasm. If  all he ever gets is the trainer who simply yells more frequently and  progressively louder you can be assured that he won't be anxious to come  the next time he's called.
 Do yourself a favor. If the dog does not  respond to your initial command go toward him until you've cut the  distance in half and repeat the command and make yourself into a happy  receptive target so the dog has a positive reason to come.
 Remember our  goal is to have the dog come to us, not listen to us yell and scream at  him.
 Distance is also a major factor when we practice sit, down, and  stay commands from a distance away from the student. Again, the solution  is simple but we have to adhere to the basics. Practice small bits  until they are mastered in various environments and with varying  distraction and only then do we up the distances.
DURATION obviously  only applies to those tasks that are time sensitive. Mainly we are  dealing with stay in a sit position or the down stay. 
I personally use  wait in some applications but it is just what it sounds like. i.e. wait  while we look for traffic, go through the door, etc and therefore is  really only a brief pause.
 The stay duration starts with ten seconds and  increases in ten second increments up to thirty seconds and then you go  to a minute, then two minutes and finally three. Once you attain three  minutes your dog will usually stay as long as you want and it's not  difficult to throw in the occasional five minutes.
 It's easier to teach  the sit stay first because the dog still has the option to move about.  Once we ask for the down stay we have removed the flight option which  makes some dogs uneasy until they become comfortable and trusting of the  environment. 
Again we start with short durations and work up with  longer stays, changing environments and distractions. The constant is  the same as with the distractions and distance. We start small and  increase gradually as we master each step.
 If you jump ahead and try to  proceed too quickly you run the risk of your dog breaking, becoming  confused, you getting frustrated , and much of your effort to this stage  being lost and you wind up back at square one but now your dog is  carrying some negative baggage which you may have to address before you  can move ahead.
So there you have the 3 D's.  If you do much training you're guaranteed to encounter them and  hopefully this will help you to recognize your challenges and have a  little better idea as to how to deal with them.
 
Any thoughts on dealing with the live-in distraction of the second dog? I'd like to work on the re-call and distance commands with Jazz without Niki being a putz. (although they BOTH need some work)
ReplyDeleteThe basics still apply. At the start we always train in a private environment with preferably zero distractions. In a perfect world this would be the school gym all by yourselves. No diff. than when you school a colt in a round corral with nobody or other horses or dogs anywhere they could offer any type of a distraction. When we ace the task in this environment we slowly introduce little distractions "poco a poco". Thanks for asking.
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