LEAVE YOUR EGO AT THE BARN DOOR

Not long ago I was sharing training stories with a friend who trains dogs and like I, had spent lots of time working with all types of horses and she came up with an expression  which she credited to her father who was a trainer on race tracks in California. He was well known for saying, ”Leave your ego at the barn door.” We agreed that this is just as applicable to dog training.” Leave your ego at the kennel door.” You see, your dog isn’t interested in who you think you were or who you think you are today or who you think you’re going to be tomorrow. Your dog lives in the here and now and frankly is mostly interested in what’s in it for him. If you’re  going to successfully teach your dog a new skill or redirect him from performing  some  action which you feel he is doing improperly or just plain shouldn’t be doing, he has one thought on his mind. Is what you’re offering of more value than that which I am doing or just did? Is your treat, toy, “good dog routine” or whatever, of more interest to your dog at this time in this place, in view of all that is happening around us? If the dog chooses to ignore you and pursue some other course of action you have to put more chips on the table. Remember “there’s nothing for nothing.” There aren’t  any freebies in the world of training. You have to give to get. Until you accept and practice this you’ll be nothing more that another “jerk and pull” artist. The motivation doesn’t have to always be food or toys. It’s not unlike getting the twelve year old to hurry up and finish his homework. If he completes a task he gets something he wants. Such as hurry up and finish your chores and you and your friend can come to the mall with me and just hang out while I do my shopping. Is this bribery? Maybe, but is it more successful than the threat of “do your homework, or I’m going to tell your Father when he comes home”? Of course it is. First of all the benefit is imminent and the threat is tired and passé. You see you’ve used that one before. Ask Fido how many times he’s heard those empty threats of Come or else. Or else what? I’ll raise the volume but I won’t take any positive action and Fido will still ignore you and not come. The dog has to get an immediate hands on positive motivator or be deprived of some action or privilege in order for him to change his course of action.

 An example of the dog being deprived of something he wants is best illustrated with the case of the jumping dog. First of all, dogs jump for two reasons. They want attention, i.e. hands and vocal response. As a matter of interest they don’t differentiate between positive and negative reactions. A yell and a slap is the same as a hug and a baby talk reaction. From the time they were puppies they learned that jumping up got voice and hands and that’s all they’re after. The normal reactions include jerking on the leash and yelling “off”, stomping on their feet, kneeing them in the chest, and a variety of other Neanderthal treatments. The simplest method is to take away that which the dog wants. ATTENTION. Fold your hands across your chest and bury your hands under your arm pits. Put your chin up and your folded arms up so the dog can’t see your face and turn your back to the dog. You’re going to have to keep turning away from the dog at the outset because if he’s a dedicated jumper he’ll keep circling and jumping. Your job is NO LOOK, NO TOUCH, NO TALK. Within a minute or two the dog will sit near you. This is where most people fail. They say something like good dog and bend down and touch the dog and he immediately goes back into jumping mode because he got what he wanted’ HANDS AND VOCAL. The correct thing to do is to continue to ignore and shun the dog until he goes several feet away and lays down. This shouldn’t take more than a minute. Again we continue to shun the dog. When he lays down, count to 200 at which time he will be convinced that there’s nothing in this process for him. Then and only then, walk half the distance to him and invite him to you in a normal conversational tone of voice. No more baby talk or high squeaky luvy talk. Now reach down with your hand at his nose level and offer him a reward for good behavior. For at least a week the exercise must be repeated by all parties involved with the dog’s life EVERYTIME YOU ENTER HIS ENVIRONMENT OR HE ENTERS YOURS. If you follow this simple hands off no talk process you will change even the most committed jumper. If he reverts to his old ways you simply go back to no look, no touch, no talk. That is an example of motivating the dog by taking something away from him that he wants as opposed to giving him a food treat or a toy.